SHEIN's participation at Vancouver Fashion Week sparks outrage

Was it created by unpaid labour? Does it profit off of a small artist's designs? Will it probably end up in a landfill in a week? Then it's probably SHEIN!

Vancouver Fashion Week has recently come under fire for including fast-fashion mogul SHEIN in their runway lineup.

Vancouver Fashion Week has traditionally showcased emerging designers and sustainable fashion. Critics worry SHEIN's inclusion undermines these values. Photo: Fashion Week Online

Community backlash

The announcement that SHEIN would participate in the community-based event has sparked backlash from local influencers and members of Vancouver's fashion scene who argue that the Chinese e-commerce giant's business model contradicts the values Vancouver Fashion Week claims to uphold. TikToker @akwardrhino passionately stated that VFW has "reached a level of dystopic greed" while local icon Fame Grandpa says VFW should support local mainstream brands like "Aritzia, Arc'teryx, [or] Lululemon" rather than a major corporation that has garnered its success from "unpaid labour."

VFW's promotion of SHEIN

On Vancouver Fashion Week's official website, SHEIN is prominently featured with a description that has further propelled the controversy:

"SHEIN is a global fashion brand dedicated to making style accessible for all. Since its founding in 2012, SHEIN has revolutionized online shopping with its trend-driven, affordable collections that cater to diverse personal styles and sizes. The brand's philosophy is rooted in inclusivity, offering everything from everyday essentials to high-fashion collaborations through its SHEIN X incubator program."

The website also states that "SHEIN has achieved worldwide recognition, building a loyal customer base that embraces self-expression through fashion. Its vision is to continue innovating with new collections, collaborations, and localized experiences tailored to the Canadian market."

This description makes no mention of sustainability practices or ethical manufacturing. These hot button issues have been central to SHEIN's controversies, despite many of Vancouver Fashion Week's designers previously emphasizing ethical fashion as a core value.

Ethical concerns

SHEIN has faced numerous controversies related to labour practices, copyright infringement, and environmental impact. Photo: Your Sustainable Guide

SHEIN has faced persistent criticism for its business practices. Reports have highlighted concerns about labour conditions in factories producing SHEIN clothing, with allegations of workers enduring 75-hour work weeks for minimal pay. Environmental groups have also criticized the company's ultra-fast fashion model, which encourages excessive consumption and contributes significantly to textile waste.

The company has also faced multiple lawsuits from designers and brands alleging copyright infringement, further damaging its reputation within the fashion community.

A model walks the runway at a previous SHEIN fashion show. The fast-fashion giant has been expanding its presence in the traditional fashion world despite ongoing controversies. Photo: BBC

Broader industry context

The controversy in Vancouver reflects a larger debate within the fashion industry about the place of ultra-fast fashion brands in traditional fashion spaces. While SHEIN has made efforts to improve its image through sustainability initiatives and designer collaborations, critics argue these are merely superficial attempts at "greenwashing" that don't address fundamental issues with the company's business model.

The backlash comes as SHEIN continues its global expansion efforts, including recent pop-up stores in Toronto and other Canadian cities that have also faced protests from environmental groups.

Vancouver Fashion Week is scheduled to take place in April 2025. Seemingly in response, organizers have since turned off the comment section and removed SHEIN from their posted schedule. Whether the brand will still be featured in the show is unclear, Vancouver Fashion Week has yet to release a statement.

What's your take on the inclusion of SHEIN in this year's show? Join the conversation @outletvancouver on Instagram.